The premier grape variety is Sangiovese, and here we could define an immediate mathematical relationship: the Sangiovese of the Southern Tuscan Coast stands to the Sangiovese of the great inland areas just as the Mediterranean Cabernet of Bolgheri stands to the Atlantic Cabernet of Bordeaux.
The Sangiovese of Morellino and Maremma benefits from a warm climate, making it ideal for yielding soft and round wines. At the same time, despite their diversity, the soils guarantee acidity levels that ensure the wines always remain balanced and dynamic.
The complexity of the soils also allows for the perfect adaptation of certain native varieties that have always been present in the area. The tufa and volcanic soils of the Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana districts have proven highly suited to the cultivation of Ciliegiolo, which reaches peaks of excellence in Sovana, just as white grape varieties offer their very best in Pitigliano.
In addition to the volcanic structure of the soils, environmental factors play a significant role: summers are mostly dry, and arid conditions are accentuated by winds that blow frequently, particularly from the third and fourth quadrants. Specifically, Scirocco and Libeccio winds blow in the spring (carrying a notable amount of salinity in the areas closest to the sea), while the Maestrale blows in the summer. Although it comes from the sea, the Maestrale is dry, effectively regulating temperatures and contributing to the sapidity of the wines.
When it comes to white grape varieties, one cannot overlook the Ansonica phenomenon. Although its production numbers are currently quite low, it foreshadows unexpected results if cultivated with greater commitment.
Ansonica, also known as Ansonaco (or Inzolia in Sicily), is the backbone grape of Marsala wine. From Sicily, it spread along Tuscany’s Tyrrhenian coast—from Suvereto to the Grosseto Maremma—as well as across the islands, most notably Elba and Giglio, and the Monte Argentario promontorio.
It is a challenging grape, characterized by a thick, deeply colored skin and low acidity. For this very reason, it feels perfectly at home right by the sea, in the presence of sea spray from which it absorbs sapidity and marine notes. In return, however, it demands extreme care during skin contact.
Ansonica viticulture, particularly on the Island of Giglio, takes on the traits of ‘heroic viticulture,’ with tiny vineyards perched on extreme slopes where the use of machinery is impossible.
On the other hand, there have been instances of extraordinary market valuations for some of these wines. A prime example is Perseo&Medusa by Pier Paolo Giglioni, which reached a price of €300,000 per bottle in Shanghai (source: Il Sole 24 Ore).
Yet another gem among the Grandi Cru della Costa Toscana.