Wines
The Grand Reds
The most fitting example is Bolgheri. The Cecina River flows to the north of Bolgheri, the Albegna River to the south, and in between lies the Castiglioncello di Bolgheri hill range, running parallel to the sea. During the summer season, a rotary air circulation is created, which dissipates excess heat from the vineyards and acts as a climate control system.
The same dynamic can be found in the interaction between the Magra and Serchio rivers and the Apuan Alps, as well as between the Ombrone and Albegna rivers further south.
Another deeply distinctive component of the Tuscan Coast terroir is the composition of its soils. This territory offers the ultimate expression of many grape varieties, both native and international, within the Italian winemaking landscape. The Bolgheri phenomenon needs no further introduction.
The consistent and continuous presence of these great red wines at the top of the Liv-ex rankings and international ratings demonstrates how this area of the Tuscan Coast enjoys unique characteristics. These features are not limited to the small Bolgheri district alone, but can also be found further north between Riparbella and Montescudaio, and to the south between Suvereto and Val di Cornia.
The so-called international grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot—represent the finest Mediterranean expression of these grapes, just as they represent the finest Atlantic expression in Bordeaux. Sangiovese is the most representative grape variety of Tuscany, and on the coast, it takes on expressions of great personality, such as in the Pisa area, or in the case of Morellino and the Maremma in Grosseto.
Further south, some producers have also given a completely unique life to Ciliegiolo, resulting in expressions of great character.
In Search of the Grand White
Even in the world of white wines, the Tuscan Coast has a strong hand to play. Vermentino is a quintessentially Mediterranean grape variety—both insular and coastal. Here, it reaches unsurpassed heights in the northern area of Massa and Carrara, where limestone soils, proximity to the sea, and sheltered exposures yield the most dynamic and savory expressions of this variety. Meanwhile, in Maremma and the Bolgheri area, the style becomes rounder, the aromas more fruity, and the palate more relaxed.
Recently, both James Suckling and Decanter have awarded prestigious accolades to Vermentino and the white wines of the Tuscan Coast. Among Suckling’s top tastings, right after Sardinia—the zone historically associated with great Vermentinos—the performances of the Colli di Luni and Apuan Alps areas stand out, with wines boasting ‘a bold character, complex, layered, and vibrant on the palate. This area benefits from limestone soils that impart a mineral elegance, just a stone’s throw from the marble quarries of Carrara.’
In Colli di Luni, the wines of Terenzuola set the benchmark for ultra-high quality, while in Versilia and the Candia area, the distinct personality of the Bertazzoli winery vividly emerges, cited among Suckling’s best tastings. This serves as a rallying cry for Candia producers, who are tasked with bringing to light all the hidden qualities of their terroir. A similar evolution is taking place on the Pisan coast in Riparbella, where Decanter identified one of the finest white wines not just of the Tuscan Coast, but of the entire Mediterranean, produced by the Podere La Regola winery. Yet, the Tuscan Coast does not stop there: further south, Vermentino takes on a softer, fuller, more solid and aromatic character, such as in Bolgheri and Maremma, where it stands as a formidable alternative to the great reds. The Bolgheri area dedicates many of its vineyards to this production, which can be considered historic, having received DOC recognition in 1984—ten years before the great reds.
To the south, along the coast and on the islands, it is Ansonica that offers wines of strong personality, despite the difficult and stubborn nature of this grape variety. Elba and Argentario yield remarkable products with this grape, but Isola del Giglio takes center stage, with a small but determined group of producers aiming for extraordinary quality.
Other Wines
Among the passito sweet wines, Aleatico has no rivals elsewhere, standing as one of the most traditional products of the Island of Elba. Great white passitos are also produced in Pisa, particularly in Riparbella. The history of Rosé from the Tuscan Coast tells a story of the transition period during the 1960s. Driving along the old Aurelia state highway near Donoratico, the gates of Marchesi Antinori’s Tenuta Belvedere were topped with large billboards sporting the slogan: ‘Bolgheri Rosé is produced here.’
At the time, the landscape was entirely filled with orchards, and Sassicaia was just taking its first steps; the Bolgheri DOC designation arrived in 1984, initially only for white and rosé wines.
The renewed focus on sparkling wines will be fascinating to follow, as they are increasingly featured among the labels of Tuscan Coast winemakers. The pioneers of this trend can be found in the Lucca area of Montecarlo and among the Colline Lucchesi, while in Riparbella, La Regola stands out for the numerous accolades achieved by its sparkling wines. The Consorzio Vino Toscana IGT and Costa Toscana IGT is currently working on an amendment to the production regulations to introduce sparkling wines among the authorized wine styles.